12km (Luxembourg side only – full trail extends for 23km) – Easy / moderate
It can be difficult to accept that the peaceful and pleasant landscape between Reisdorf, Bettendorf and Hoesdorf (in the east of Luxembourg) was once the scene of fierce fighting and human suffering. You can get a better idea of the drama and horrors that took place here in winter 1944/45 by taking a tour on this themed hiking trail, with numerous waypoints (English and German) providing enough information about the battles to satisfy even the most ardent historians.
There are numerous starting points for this trail. We chose a parking spot beside the Sauer in Reisdorf, passed a pretty stone chapel and were soon heading steeply up the valley side. At the top, a wayside cross dominated a natural junction between paths on the corner of the plateau. We took a breather and looked more closely at the monument – only to see that it was riddled with bullet holes.
This particular remnant of the horrors of World War II wasn’t expressly signposted, but other “souvenirs” of this terrible war are detailed expressively on several information boards (in English and German). Just a little further on, the trail passes a dugout. Soldiers guarding the trail in autumn 1944 would have been stationed here, two at a time for several days at a time. In truth, they probably didn’t expect to see much action, and they had to find ways of keeping themselves occupied, as can be seen in the nearby “tree graffiti”. (There are even better examples of WWII tree graffiti near my home town of Beaufort – see here.)
Then, out of the blue, from the freezing fog and through the knee-deep snow, the Germans attacked. The “Battle of the Bulge” is mostly associated with taking place further north, but there were also some terrible skirmishes this far south too. This innocuous-looking plaque at the end of a now-peaceful field commemorates the German soldiers who were pointlessly, senselessly and futilely ordered to attack here. The Allies had machine guns ready and there was nowhere to hide. The most shocking moment of the trail.
Onwards through the now-peaceful countryside we hiked, passing more bullet-ridden monuments, memorial signs, information boards and, not forgetting, excellent views over the Sauer and Our valleys. This isn’t a new trail and some of the infrastructure (e.g. information boards) are looking a bit tatty and / or missing. A refreshment of the route is probably now due, and this fascinating and unique walk through history is well worth preserving.
- Park at 6 Route de la Sûre, 9390 Reisdorf, then cross the bridge and look for the start of the trail (cover photo).
- Take a map or a photo of the route. It may not be consistently signposted.
- More information: https://www.mullerthal.lu/en/fiche/walking/remembrance-walk
(c) 2021 Jonathan Orr
Luxembourg Outdoors 