Two romantic castles, the dizzying beauty of the Nommerlayen rock formations, long sections through calm, birdsong-filled forest, and one of the prettiest viewpoints in Luxembourg – we enjoyed this “Extra Tour” a lot!
There is no correct way to hike the Mullerthal Trail Extra Tour A. Clockwise, anticlockwise; starting in Larochette, Medernach, Nommern or anywhere in between… you’ll see the same great scenery whichever way you choose to enjoy it.
Personally, we chose a starting point near Medernach and went anti-clockwise, for the simple reason that the section from there to Nommern seemed – on the map at least – to be the least interesting part of the trail on asphalt roads, and we wanted to “get it over with”. As it turned out, we were correct… but there were still some pockets of spring-green forest and bucolic views to savour.
Up until this point, there hadn’t been much “Mullerthallyness” along the route, but that all changed dramatically once we passed the busy “Nommerlayen” campsite and entered the forest.
For many, the convoluted rocky landscape of Nommerlayen will almost certainly be the highlight of this trail as it twists, turns, rises and falls through countless formations with names like “Drachenlay“, and “Rammlay“. It may not be as spectacular as Berdorf, nor as absurdly beautiful as the Kohlscheuer (near Consdorf), nor as romantic as the shimmering Hallerbach valley near Beaufort, but it does a pretty good job of combining lots of the best features of these places into one concentrated, easy-to-explore area. A sort of “Mullerthal in miniature“, if you like, that I strongly recommend visiting if you’re a foreign visitor with limited time to explore.
Climbing out of Nommerlayen towards the Angelsberg plateau is by far the most difficult section of the trail. Once you reach the top, the scenery does a dramatic about-turn once again, with open fields and an arrow-straight road.
This is the approach to Meysembourg Castle which, despite being one of the tallest castles in Luxembourg, somehow manages to remain completely hidden from view until you are almost standing directly beneath it.
Although there has been a castle on this site since the 12th century, today’s fantasy fairy-tale pile was built in the late 19th century and has remained in private hands ever since; visits are currently not possible. As much as I love trees, I can’t help but feel that a little bit of 21st century woodcutting between the castle and the nearby lake would do wonders for Luxembourg tourism, as this photograph from 1891 so plainly evokes:
Between Meysembourg and Larochette, the trail winds and curls languidly through dense forest, as if it’s in no hurry to leave the beauty of the neo-Renaissance castle behind it. Eventually, though, another – even better-known – castle comes into view: the medieval ruins of Larochette.
After the tranquility of the hike up to this point, the hustle and bustle of this busy little town, squeezed into the White Ernz valley, comes as a pleasant diversion. The Mullerthal Trail doesn’t linger, though – it goes straight up a narrow alley and rises quickly into the forest overlooking the church, castle and crooked houses. Then it follows the edge of the woods to what must be one of the prettiest viewpoints in Luxembourg: the Himmelsbierg.
By now, we have now re-joined the parent “Mullerthal Trail 3“, and the typical scenery of rocks, carpets of flowers and mixed forest continues back to our starting point in Medernach (with a brief sortie over some farmland with sweeping views in all directions).
It will take you the best part of a day to complete the Mullerthal Trail Extra Tour A, but it’s a varied, beautiful and mostly serene hike that will stay with you for much, much longer than that.
(c) 2021 Jonathan Orr
Luxembourg Outdoors 