Kasteler Felsenpfad

Historic 9km trail through towering rock formations and peaceful forest.
45 minutes by car from Luxembourg City.
Start from the large car park at 54441 Kastel-Staadt, Germany.

The Romans knew what they were doing.

When they wanted to build a settlement in the Saar-Mosel area, they recognised that this rocky outcrop on a hill overlooking the Saar River was strategically perfect: strong defensive advantages and control over trade routes, as well as plenty of easily-accessible stone for building. Later, when defence became less important than trade, they shifted their focus to Trier.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Fast forward 2,000 years and while only scattered remnants of the Romans at Kastel remain, the location itself is as magnificent as it ever has been. Right from the starting point, the hiker is treated to a glimpse into the historical and cultural significance of this place. There’s a collection of Roman artefacts in a shelter at the car park, a pretty church framed by a “recycled” Roman gate (dating from 2nd or 3rd century) and the clearly-visible old amphitheatre, under threat of falling victim to erosion and slipping down the hillside forever.

From the amphitheatre, head under the “Kasteler Felsenpfad” archway and you’re on the trail proper. It isn’t long before you get a magnificent view over the Saar valley. A few steps further and you’re into a rocky wonderland.

A signpost recommends that you follow the trail in a clockwise direction. It’s a undulating narrow path, first skirting the base of the cliffs directly under the “Klause Kastel-Stadt” (look up!) then turning a corner into the Pinschbaach Valley. With the red rocks a constant companion on your right-hand side, the trail twists and turns all the way down to the valley floor, passing the impressive 36-metre rust-red pinnacle of the Runderturm along the way.

Upon reaching the bottom there is something of a respite from the dramatic scenery. Here, the path instead hairpins gently upwards through forest towards the trail’s star attraction – the Altfels. This imposing sandstone behemoth towering over the Saar has been significant for centuries, deeply intertwined with local history, folklore and legends. Today the more courageous among us can scale its heights by means of an almost-vertical path with a “via ferrata” rope to help guide you to the top (safety equipment recommended).

By this point, about half-way through the hike, you’ve seen the most impressive sights that the Kasteler Felsenpfad has to offer, but that’s not to say that the rest of the trail is boring. The “Traumschleife” leads you on through idyllic forest surroundings with the occasional rocky outcrop or bubbling spring adding spice and variety. Into the village of Kastel-Staadt itself you’ll wander, then immediately back out again to a landscape increasingly similar to – but never quite reaching the heights of – the sandstone wonderland experienced in kilometre one.

Before too long you’ll be back in familiar territory near the Roman Amphitheatre, from where it’s a short climb back to the starting point. If you’re hiking this trail between Easter and September, consider paying a visit to the Klause Kastel monument and gardens (€5, opening hours apply) before leaving this exceptionally beautiful and historically important site.