Eislek Pad Boulaide

12km – Challenging – 4 hours
A surprisingly demanding and rewarding hike, from the quiet streets of Boulaide to the windswept heights over the Upper Sûre.
Highlights include the stunning “Houfels” viewpoint and expansive vistas over the rolling hills of the Eislek.
Park and start near the church in Rue du Curé, Boulaide. By bus: “Boulaide Post”
Refreshments available in Boulaide and at Bungerefermillen.

An immersive video projection on five monumental “screens” bathed in flickering light to the soundtrack of a dramatic history. That’s NOT how hikes usually begin, and certainly not in the rural, hilly north-west corner of Luxembourg.

But that’s exactly what I found in Boulaide, accompanied by a bombardment of high-quality, multi-language information panels outside. This is the Our Common Heritage exhibition, and this eyebrow-raising beginning proved quite the talking point as we eventually left the village through the fields, setting out on what we had come here to do: the Eislek Pad Boulaide.

In pretty much every aspect, this hike was… unexpectedly epic. Perhaps it was the squally gusts that came and went like temper tantrums, or the missing sign that sent us trail-running an extra two kilometres over the acorn-strewn paths, but there seemed to be a surprise for us around every corner on this trail – and I loved it!

From the rain-soaked paths by the artworks at Bauscheltermillen, the trail rises slowly up along the south bank of the Upper Sûre, then crosses over at Bungerefermillen and climbs steeply up the north bank instead. The scenery, to this point, has been pleasant but unspectacular – think fields, forest and river – but, oh boy, is that about to change!

The climb up and views from the Houfels are arguably the highlights of this trail: a challenging, rocky ascent from which the views over two horseshoe bends in the river just keep on getting better and better. At the top, the reward is a panoramic sweep of forest and water, with plenty of picnic tables inviting you to linger. Then, tucked among the trees, a chalet straight out of a Nordic fairy tale; you can even rent it out and enjoy the views all day long from the huge windows opening out to the valley below. Also up here are two American WWII artillery guns which, along with the wartime video projection in Boulaide, make this an excellent trail choice for those who love history as much as hiking.

My son and I spent so long at the top of the Houfels that, thinking we must already have seen all there is to see on this trail, we agreed to “power walk” the remainder of the trail. We failed. Why? It’s quite simple: there is too much to take in here. For example, the views down from the Houfels are equally as wonderful as on the way up.

Then comes the stretch along the banks of the Sûre, where yet more acorns crunch underfoot and half-sunken boats rest motionless beneath the weeping branches, bobbing like forgotten toys in the glass-still water.

And, after that, another climb up to another valley ridge, this one offering perhaps the finest views of all. Below us, a convoy of ducks glided miles in perfect formation while above us, on this day that Luxembourg enthroned a new Grand-Duke, a rainbow crowned the golden-green hills of the Eislék. It was glorious.

But all good things must come to an end, and eventually the path rises up out of the forest and back across farmland towards Boulaide and the starting point. I’m a huge fan of the Eislék Pad trails, but this one soared beyond even the loftiest of my expectations. I’m already looking forward to walking it again.