Traumschleife Schengen

There probably isn’t one single perfect time to hike the Schengen “Dream Loop”, but a dull, drizzly March afternoon after a sustained period of heavy rain certainly isn’t it. Anyway, regardless of the weather and time of year, this is a varied and surprisingly challenging hike along birdsong-filled pathways and superb views over the Moselle valley.

Starting off from the numerous sculptures and monuments to a united Europe in Schengen, the trail quickly rises – steeper and steeper – up through the “Stromberg” nature reserve. You’ll gain over 150 metres in your first 1.5km from the banks of the murky Moselle to the first viewpoint over the valley, and your calves will thank you for it.

You’re not getting bored on this trail; the environment seems to shift and change every few hundred metres, from dense forest to open plateau, from narrow steep trail to broad farm track. It even shifts countries, Luxembourg seamlessly merging into France. A short detour after 3.5km of rather intense walking will allow you to rest your weary legs at a gorgeous little chapel, lost deep in the woods.

Back on the main trail, the path rises steeply once more up to the most beguiling section of the hike, the plateau and rocks at the peak of the “Stromberg” hill. On a clear day with blue skies, the views over France and Germany must be spellbinding. Dropping off over the rocky bluffs leads to views over the imposing cliffs and dark caves, ripe for exploration.

From here the path turns back towards Schengen once more, first through the lower slopes of the Stromberg nature reserve and winter-bare vineyards, then through fruit orchards beginning to burst into bloom. As before, the trail kept on throwing in little surprises: a sudden steep section here, an information board there, the backdrop of solitude and birdsong everywhere.

After 7km you’ll find yourself back in a familiar place, from where you’ll retrace your steps down that steep, steep hill towards Schengen. There’s an inviting-looking café right at the starting point, but the late winter rains had turned so much of the 8.5km trail into a mudbath that I didn’t dare venture in. Next time…

Practical info

  • Park near the monuments on Rue Robert Goebbels, Schengen, or anywhere close to the bridge.
  • By public transport, buses 402 (from Lux Gare) and 432 (Mondorf and Remich) will get you there.
  • As experienced yesterday, the path can be extremely muddy and slippery after rainy weather. Good hiking boots and dry weather are highly recommended.
  • Official “Geoportal” route: http://g-o.lu/3/dBlK

(c) Jonathan Orr 2024

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