Auto-Pédestre Hollenfels Reimagined: A Scenic Loop via Ansembourg

Unofficial but easily navigated 13km loop taking in two of Luxembourg’s loveliest castles.
Starts at the Grand Château d’Ansembourg (ample parking – free).
Don’t miss Ansembourg’s incredible baroque gardens (10:00-18:00, free entrance) and the charming “Kalbaach” ponds.

The superb castles of Ansembourg and Hollenfels sit just a few short kilometres apart. And yet the only official hiking loop in the area – the Auto-Pédestre Hollenfels – manages to miss both of them.

That had to change. So, I’ve reworked the route to start at the magnificent Grand Château d’Ansembourg (plenty of free parking available) and include a visit to the sturdy Château de Hollenfels fortress too. Let’s begin!

An early start on a rainy June morning meant the gates to the 17th-century Grand Château d’Ansembourg were still closed as I set off through the gloom. With no signposted path out of the hamlet, I took the only option: a quiet public road uphill, bordered by rain-washed wild strawberries. (Most of the surrounding land is private, so please don’t stray.)

The traffic was almost non-existent, but I got off the road as quickly as I could anyway, swapping tarmac for rain-soggy paths where sagging bracken soaked my trousers. Soon I’d joined the Auto-Pédestre Hollenfels, clearly marked by that familiar blue diamond. I’d expected Hollenfels Castle to appear next, but it stayed stubbornly out of view. Instead, two quieter highlights emerged: first, a spring bubbling playfully beside a bench, its clear water joining the swollen Eisch below. And then, quite unexpectedly, the quite gorgeous Kalbaach Ponds.

These ponds aren’t just scenic – they’re alive. The still water and abundant vegetation attract frogs, dragonflies and shy woodland birds. As you traverse the wooden walkways and pondside tracks, it wouldn’t surprise me at all if you’d spot a heron pausing for a fish or the brilliant blue flash of a kingfisher.

Think of these ponds as the soft heart of this hike, a serene and natural counterpoint to the grandeur of the castles. Coming roughly half-way through the trail, they are a fabulous spot for a planned picnic break (plenty of tables available) before starting the long, slow climb up to Hollenfels.

You can quite safely put your camera away for the next few kilometres, as the Auto-Pêdestre Hollenfels rises slowly through standard forest scenery, then absent-mindedly strikes out across typical Guttland farmland. Upon reaching the top of the plateau, it then suddenly remembers where it started from, and makes a U-turn back towards Hollenfels again. It’s not the most exciting stretch, but it helps build anticipation for the final push to the castle.

But wait! Having made this long diversion, surely the Auto-Pédestre Hollenfels pays its namesake castle a visit? Sadly, no – the official trail bizarrely turns off to the right a few hundred metres before the towering medieval keep. I wasn’t going to accept this, so I grumpily departed from the Auto-Pédestre and wandered down towards the sturdy fortress at the bottom of the street. Although currently undergoing renovations, there’s a very pleasant park adjoining the castle – a perfect spot for viewing the castle and finishing off whatever’s left in your picnic hamper.

From here, your adventure has a simple goal: get back to the Grand Château d’Ansembourg. Whatever path you choose, you’ll soon find yourself going back down that steep hill with the strawberries again. By now those gilded chateau gates had been opened, and a tour of the gardens seemed like the essential way of completing this hike.

There are, in fact, two Châteaux d’Ansembourg of which this 17th century beauty is the “new” one. The “old” château – on a well-hidden rocky bluff nearby – is a strictly private affair, the long-time residence of the Count de Marchant et d’Ansembourg.

Technically speaking, the Grand Château is also private, owned since 1987 by Ryuko Hira, a Japanese philanthropist. Under his care, the château has seen restoration and cultural projects, though the building itself is not generally open to the public. But it’s the gardens that draw people here, baroque-style terraces filled with fruit trees, roses, sculptures, fountains and allegorical themes. They are free to enter (10:00-18:00), but I’ve been several times and have often found myself completely alone there. I have genuinely no idea why…

These wondrous gardens, a harmonious blend between nature and art, are the perfect way to end the hike. I can’t help but feel that this area is underserved by hiking trails. Hopefully one day there will be a premium “Guttland Trail” (or similar), a trail worthy of these quiet giants of the Luxembourg countryside.

USEFUL LINKS

Our route on Komoot. Includes a downloadable gpx track.
Website of the Grand Château d’Ansembourg. Do check before setting off, as the castle is occasionally closed for private events.
- Dog owners: please note that dogs are not allowed in the gardens. This does not affect your ability to complete this hike as you can simply skip the gardens and return to the car park.