Mansfeld Circular Walk, Luxembourg City: In the Footsteps of a Lost Palace.

5km – Easy / medium – At least 2 hours
Walk alongside the ghosts of a forgotten palace in the heart of Luxembourg City.
Subtle hints of a grand history, exploration of Luxembourg’s fortifications and, of course, fabulous viewpoints.
By bus: Clausen / Clausener Bréck (or any Clausen bus stop).
By car: you’ll likely find a space on or near Allée Pierre de Mansfeld.

Set in the narrow valley of Clausen, not far from the bustle of today’s city centre, the ruins of Schloss Mansfeld lie almost unnoticed (I lived near here many years ago and didn’t even know that it existed until recently…). But take a closer look and you’ll find a hint of something truly extraordinary.

Built in the late 16th century by Pierre-Ernest de Mansfeld, Governor of Luxembourg and one of the most powerful nobles in the Spanish Netherlands, this was no ordinary residence but a vast Renaissance palace complex. Exact plans have, sadly, been lost to history, but it was certainly far larger than the current Palais Grand-Ducal and perhaps twenty times larger overall when its landscaped gardens and ornamental terraces are considered.

The Versailles of Luxembourg? Well, not quite. But probably as close as it comes.

The scale and ambition of this palace were unparalleled for the Grand-Duchy: a refined, Italian-inspired statement of Mansfeld’s power and ambition. After his death, however, the palace quickly declined. It was stripped of valuables, neglected, and eventually abandoned as military priorities shifted and maintenance costs soared. Its stones were gradually pilfered and reused as a handy source of building material by the residents of Clausen.

Today, only scattered remnants of the original palace remain: fragments of walls here and there, a small park where the gardens and fountains once stood, arches tucked between modern buildings. The vast deer park that once surrounded it has long since been absorbed by the expanding city as Clausen and Neudorf grew around it.

However, with a little imagination (and, I admit, with a certain satisfaction) you can still get a real impression of what this grand palatial complex once must have been like, and the Mansfeld Circular Walk helps bring that lost world back into view.

First up, a little problem. Luxembourg City Tourist Office describes this hike, tantalisingly, as having an associated augmented reality app. The idea is brilliant and simple: at key points along the trail you can see what the full glory of the palace complex would have looked like by holding your smartphone up towards the ruins.

However, there’s a snag: it doesn’t work. (At least not on my iPhone.)

Reading through comments on the App Store suggests that, for once, it’s not just me and that the AR functionality hasn’t worked for quite some time. At the time of writing, you’ll have to make do with only the actual reality version of the tour instead. Still, as you traverse Clausen and begin the steep climb up into the woods, you quickly realise that the real thing is not bad at all: there are some superb views over the old palace complex, the Alzette valley and Luxembourg City centre.

Technology is not necessary in places like this (except perhaps your phone to take photos).

From the wooded heights above Neudorf, the trail loops back at an old entrance to the deer park and descends into the streets below. More remnants of the palatial complex appear sporadically, such as a couple of archways, some wall fragments and relief sculptures tucked quietly into the urban landscape. Another U-turn awaits at the Tour Malakoff, an imposing round tower with the minor claim to fame of being the very last gateway added to Luxembourg’s fortress system before dismantling began in 1867.

You are by now climbing, steeply in places, up towards the Kirchberg plateau and the entrance to two of the city’s best-known museums: the Musée Dräi Eechelen (brilliant further explanations of the city’s fortifications) and the MUDAM (Museum of Modern Art: the I. M. Pei-designed building is generally accepted as being more interesting than the exhibits…). Most impressive of all, you won’t be surprised to learn, are the views over this beguiling city.

Leaving the museums behind you, the ground falls away gradually into the Park Dräi Eechelen, a much-loved and endlessly fascinating corner of Luxembourg City that invites you to slow down and explore. Just beyond these grassy expanses lies fortress architecture at its most imposing: thick stone, sharp angles, and commanding views over the eastern approaches to the city. Looking back, the juxtaposition of these unyielding military monoliths against the modern, sleek lines of the MUDAM is particularly striking. It’s easily one of my favourite spots in the city.

Whilst once this elevated position controlled access to Luxembourg’s heart, it is today a leisure hotspot where history sits alongside the vibrant life of Luxembourg citizens. Come up here at any time and there will be something happening: open-air dance classes, families picknicking, running groups congregating for pre- (or post-) run socialising. It’s a magical, unique spot worth lingering at.

Having explored the park to your satisfaction, head down to the edge of the valley and pick up the signs once again to your left, zig-zagging through birdsong-filled woods and past a lost-looking, fairy-tale Spanish tower before joining the Alzette River. Located in the shadow of a giant railway viaduct, the Luxembourg City Youth Hostel is a good spot for an inexpensive coffee or a family-friendly lunch to celebrate the near-completion of your hike. From there, it’s a simple stroll back towards the spire of St. Cunégonde Church and the Parc Mansfeld once again.